I can barely swim, I’ve never been on a surf board, and have no interest in trying.
But I could see that when life’s going well it’s a state of balance.
There’s lots going on, and small adjustments here and there allow us to respond and keep going.
Every so often some big wave or other comes along and upsets everything.
There’s a mad scramble to get air, to get back up on the board.
It can take weeks or even months to recover and get back to the excitement of riding the waves.
I thought it was about living in London. Working long hours. Commuting.
I quit the job, moved to Brighton and went to art school.
Then moved back to the countryside in Northern Ireland.
That shit still happens.
So I guess I can’t blame London any more.
What I’m finally learning is that I don’t need to be up on the board the whole time.
That perhaps the neutral state is floating. Not flying, but not drowning either.